Saturday, December 20, 2008

The Yeastie Boys

Winemaking is a series of choices, large and small, some made in advance and some made on the spot as events unfold. One of the important choices concerns yeast. At its core, wine making is a simple process. Yeast eats sugar and converts it to alcohol. But beyond this simple and natural process, things become more complex.

Native vs. Yeast Additions

Yeasts occur naturally both in the vineyard and in the winery. Some winemakers follow the minimalist approach, and allow the native yeasts to control the fermentation. Others prefer to add commercially available yeast, typically cultivated for the specific variety of grape. And still others like to start with native yeasts and then add commercial yeast midway through the process. There are multiple theories and controversies surrounding these issues and little consensus.

Here are the advantages and disadvantages for each approach:

Going Native

Most consistent with a purist philosophy of minimal intervention. Winemakers following this approach like to speak in terms of “midwifing” the wine and generally eschew additions or amendments in the process, letting nature take its course. Can help bring out additional complexity and nuance in the wine. Cooler, slower fermentations, less extraction in the wine. However, there is less control over the process- and nature will take its course which is not always a good thing!. Risk of a “stuck” fermentation, i.e. the native yeasts can’t complete the job and the winemaker then has a big mess on his/her hands. One debate concerns how “natural” the process really is as the yeasts may come from the vineyard but also from yeasts present in the winery, and it is unclear and variable as to which yeasts may dominate in any given fermentation process.

Commercial Yeasts

These yeasts are more powerful and get the fermentation done more quickly and thoroughly. Hotter fermentations that will produce darker more extracted wines are possible. A wide variety of commercial yeasts are available and they can be matched to the specific grape varietal, producing a more predictable and controllable event. Most wines are made with commercial yeasts. For the most part, we make big but balanced wines and generally use commercial yeasts to give us more color and extraction in the wine. Keep in mind that the commercial yeasts are completely natural yeasts but are selected and cultivated for this purpose as the best yeasts.

Having it Both Ways

Some winemakers start with native yeasts and, as the native yeasts die off (the increasing alcohol levels create an inhospitable environment so their gluttony is the cause of their own demise- how is that for an eating disorder?) they then introduce commercial yeasts which are stronger and can handle the higher alcohol and heat levels. This compromise is intended to give the advantages of both while eliminating the stuck fermentation risks.

We are thinking about making a Pinot in this style in the future- it would be a bit lower in alcohol, lighter in color and have a bit more acidity. It would be an elegant, lighter Pinot that would pair up very nicely with salmon and chicken. We will keep you posted on this idea.

Cheers,

Dave