Friday, December 19, 2008

Wine 6.0

Wine 6.0

First, there was European Old World wine (1.0). Then the European immigrants to California, many Italian, who commonly grew what we now call “old vine” Zinfandel (some of their vines still survive (2.0). Much of their activity ceased with Prohibition. Then the rise of the large scale mass production wines with labels that were misleading at best, such as “Hearty Burgundy” which was definitely hearty but not in any way Burgundy (3.0). Then quality began to take hold, with estate bottled wine such as Heitz and Inglenook emerging in an increasing focus on Napa Valley Cabernet and specific vineyard designations (e.g. Heitz Martha’s Vineyard) (4.0). Then came the wealthy celebrity and business owner vineyards. Winemakers such as Francis Ford Coppola and Fess Parker making good, sometimes great wine (5.0).

Now we have a veritable explosion in winemaking activity with excitement occurring among the extremely small scale wineries such as Calicaro. In this version, 6.0, things have gotten really interesting.

First, the economics have been turned upside down. No longer do you need $10 million dollars and ten years to create a winery in the 6.0 world. Winemakers source grapes and vineyards from others who specialize in the farming and then the winemakers share space and equipment with other winemakers in cooperative arrangements. No need to tie up huge amounts of capital and equipment used one time per year, even if that kind of capital was available (and among the 6.0 winemakers very few come from vast wealth).

6.0 advantages are many fold. There is more competition among growers to produce great fruit and the advances in quality are remarkable. Makers can select from many great vineyards which are establishing their own reputations and branding identities. Makers can have designated blocks in the vineyards, grown to the maker’s wishes. Shared fruit, knowledge and ideas up everyone’s game. Makers have flexibility to quickly establish new designated single vineyard wines (and drop old ones). And makers can bypass the middleman and sell directly to consumers, using ecommerce and eliminating the market inefficiencies of the mass distribution channels. No more are consumers-even those those living in remote locations-stuck with mediocre industrial production wine.

The boutique winery market is expanding and some well established artisanal winemakers have long waiting lists for their wines. And new boutique wineries are being established everywhere. Exciting times, indeed. Welcome to wine world 6.0!

Cheers,

Dave
Calicaro.com