The “Sideways” Phenomenon – Real or Fad?

The “Sideways” Phenomenon – Real or Fad?

Even casual observers know that Pinot Noir is popular now. Let’s call it the “Sideways Phenomenon”. No doubt “The Movie” (as Pinot Noir makers refer to it) shined the light on this varietal and paid a poetic (and quite accurate) homage in the remarkable scene where Miles and Maya praise the noble grape’s attributes.

However, there are much bigger forces at work here than a single Hollywood movie.
In France, Pinot Noir plays queen to the king grape of Cabernet. While maybe not politically correct today, many have observed that the “feminine” characteristics of elegance and restraint play yin to the muscular, bold Cabernet yang. Pinot is an extremely fickle grape that has often disappointed in the vineyard and the glass. It is thin skinned, literally and figuratively.
People have tried to grow Pinot in the U.S. for a long time. A few areas, such as the Russian River Valley and Carneros have been producing good Pinot for quite a while.

However, the viticulture has advanced (in no small part due to the new Dijon clones that do so well in cooler climates) and modern Pinot makers have now nailed it, New World Style. Spectacular fruit is coming from several new areas and extremely passionate Pinot makers are taking full advantage. Much of the New World Style Pinot is richer, bolder, more intense, and more highly extracted wine than French Burgundy. I love it. If you will allow me to continue to maintain the female analogy, if French Burgundy is Nicole Kidman; the New World Pinot (at its most extreme) is Venus Williams. It can be a wine that even a big muscular mountain Cabernet lover can enjoy. And the New World Pinot makers are covering the spectrum, from light and fruity to big, dark, intense, lush and oakey, but still undeniably Pinot.

Great Pinot is coming from several newer areas. Try Santa Lucia Highlands, Sta. Rita Hills, Sonoma Coast, Anderson Valley, and Oregon. Even British Columbia and New Zealand are in the game. No doubt other areas will be identified and cultivated in the future, although they will be small specific coastal areas that offer just the right combination of soil, fog, sun and temperature.

And, as for the effect of “The Movie” now that people have tried the noble grape New World Style there is no turning back. It is that seductive.

Cheers,

Dave