Devereaux's Clive Coates Burgundy Wine Dinner

I was fortunate to be able to attend the Clive Coates Burgundy Wine Dinner at Devereaux's on April 3. For those unfamiliar with Mr. Coates, he is a renown wine critic and writer who focuses on France. He has spent much of the last 30 years living in Burgundy and has written the definitive volumes on this complex and sublime wine region. His latest, The Wines of Burgundy" came out last year and runs to almost 900 pages. I bought a copy and he graciously signed it. It will be my new "go to" resource on all matters Burgundy- an area that confounds and overwhelms me with its inter- relationships and vast numbers of winemakers.

Here are my notes from the dinner and the tasting:

Greeting Wine:
Jean Claude Thevenet Blanc de Blancs de Chardonnay Brut NV
Yeasty bread, Meyer lemon, orange, apricot, cream custard, crisp minerality. Excellent value at $28

Cauliflower Vichyssoise with Smoked Salmon Potato Salad, Sturgeon Caviar, Crispy Leeks

2006 Jean-Marc Pillot, Bourgogne Blanc
Gorgeous complex nose. On the palate, green apple, lime oil, various stone fruits, including apricot, minerality, short dry finish. Also good at $33

Seared Halibut with Bok Choy, Broccoli, Red Peppers, Five Spice Consomme

2005 Buisson, Saint Romain Rouge
Slight funk on the nose, with dried cherries. On the palate, dried cherries, sour cherries, truffles, earth. Finish with noticeable grain in the tannins. Nice light Pinot, a bit rustic. Beautifully paired with the Five Spice- each played and built off the other. Could benefit from more bottle age. Good value for a Burgundy at $36

Roasted Breast of Duck with Spiced Carrots, Onion Marmalade, Wild Huckleberry Jus

2004 JM Morey Santenay 1er Cru "Grand Clos Rousseau"
My Wine Of The Night. Slight but not objectionable alc on the nose with the classic cherry and earth. Well balanced, good acidity, dried cherries, pepper. Velvety tannins and lush mouthfeel. Med finish. Very good value at $51.

48 Hour Beef Shortrib with Celery Root Puree, Spinach, Sweet Garlic Emulsion

2005 Harmond- Geoffroy Gevrey Chambertin "En Jouise".
Noticeable alc on the nose and a little hot on the palate. Big and extracted, more like a slightly over the top Cali Pinot. Settled down a bit as it sat in the glass. Sour cherry. At $62 I would pass and go with the JM Morey Santenay described above, which had enough stuffing to stand up to the shortribs, a very rich dish.

Wonderful meal, great wines, an incredible evening, one I will never forget. Thanks to Clive Coates for coming to Devreaux's in Greenville, SC for this special evening. Thanks to Steven Devereaux Greene for an exquisite meal that worked so well with the wines. Thanks to Ed Greene and Richard Peck for the wine selections. And thanks to Richard and Susan, Donna, Ted, Malinda and Shauna, gracious and wonderful dinner companions, one and all.

Cheers,

Dave